When the Earth Weeps | The Story of Gelmali

“Gelmali” is one of the most powerful and symbolic mourning rituals practiced in Lorestan—especially in Khorramabad—during the month of Muharram. This ancient tradition is a form of tribute to Imam Hussein (peace be upon him), in which mourners cover their heads, faces, and clothes with mud on the Day of Ashura. The ritual is an emotional and spiritual expression of grief, loyalty, and deep love for the martyred grandson of the Prophet.

With the arrival of Muharram, the air in Lorestan fills with solemnity. For generations, the people of this mountainous region have honored the memory of Karbala by gathering in large groups to prepare for Gelmali. This act of covering oneself with mud is not exclusive to Ashura—it is also performed in personal and communal mourning rituals, such as funerals—but during Ashura, it takes on its most powerful and sacred form. Regardless of the weather, whether under the scorching summer sun or in the bitter winter cold, the people of Lorestan perform the mud-smearing ceremony with remarkable passion and dignity. It’s considered one of the most grounded and visceral mourning rituals in the world—an offering of body and soul, of earth and devotion, to the memory of the oppressed son of Fatima (peace be upon her).

The roots of this ceremony stretch back thousands of years, possibly even to the era of Abel and Cain. According to tradition, when Cain killed his brother Abel, God instructed him to bury the body in the earth. That connection between human and soil—between death and return to the earth—is reflected in Gelmali. In times past, when black mourning cloth was scarce, people would tear pieces from their black tents and place them on their shoulders, then cover themselves with mud as a gesture of mourning and humility before God.

The ceremony takes place not only in Lorestan but also in other western provinces of Iran like Kermanshah and Ilam. In the local Luri language, the ritual is called "Khoreh giri," with “Khoreh” meaning “mud.” It begins with a series of preparations days before Ashura, starting from what is known as the "Shaving Day of Abbas." On this day, men go to public baths, shave their heads and faces, and wear clean clothing—cleansing themselves both physically and spiritually. Community members also collect firewood in advance, some of which is donated as part of religious vows. Fires are built near the ritual grounds to help mourners dry off and warm themselves, especially during the cold winter mornings when the ceremony takes place.

Gelmali is more than a ritual. It is a collective act of remembrance, a living embodiment of grief, and a tribute passed down through generations. To witness it is to feel the heartbeat of a people whose history, pain, and faith are etched into every handful of earth they lift in the name of Imam Hussein.